Archive for the '06 Downhill' Category

Self Retrieving Ski Anchor

Published
by
Andrew
on December 1, 2008
in 06 Downhill and Tips & Technique
. 7 Comments

I learned this sketchy rappel technique, where else, but in France, although in all fairness, it was a Swede who showed it to me.  The idea is that with nothing more than a length of rope, you can set up a rappel in the middle of a snowfield, then after you’ve rappel, you can pull on the other end of the rope and get the anchor to release.  The advantage of this is that you don’t need to find a tree, picket or anything else for an anchor.  The disadvantage is that it is NOT a super reliable rappel anchor and at times it can have trouble releasing if you bury your skis too deep.  Still, when it works it is pretty cool.

I’ve only set this up once and found that it works well in a pinch when you want a little extra security on a slope that might be a dangerous down-climb.  It is not the rappel of choice for a high-stakes, free-hanging rappel! 

This technique is a variation on a self retrieving ice axe rappel, which substitutes axes for skis.  A key part of this rappelling technique is to have holes in your ski tips, as you need to pass the rope through them.  (Yet another reason to have holes in your tips…)

Step One - Dig a trench one ski width wide with a shallow pocket in the back.

Step Two - Lay one ski horizontally in the trench, then stuff the other ski vertically in behind it.  Make sure the skis are base-to-base and the horizontal ski has its tip pointing downhill.

Using a bowline, tie a loop around the upright ski, then pass the other end of the rope through the horizontal ski, tie an overhand knot,  add in about six feet of slack, pass the rope through the ski tip of the vertical ski and tie another overhand knot.

Step Three - Rappel very gently, making sure not to pull on the uphill side of the rope.

Step Four - When you reach the bottom of the rope loop, auger in and pull the other end of the rope.  Hopefully this will get the horizontal ski to pop loose from its bed and come out.

Step Five - Keep pulling.  Hopefully the horizontal ski will pop loose, followed by the vertical ski.  If this works, heads up!  A mess of rope and skis will come tumbling down.  If it doesn’t work… bummer.  You might have to climb back up and rerig it, but now your anchor is perhaps compromised.

If it works, don’t tell your Mom about it - it will only make her worry.

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The Simple & Sexy Munter Hitch

Published
by
Andrew
on June 18, 2008
in 06 Downhill
. 3 Comments

The Munter hitch is perfectly suited for ski mountaineering as it is simple, only requires a locking carabiner, can be fed quickly (for belayed skiing) and is reversible for belaying or rappelling.  Also, unlike many belay devices, it works well with smaller diameter ropes.  The downside of it is that it requires constant brake-hand pressure, so if you let go, you can easily drop yourself or the person you are belaying.  It also kinks ropes, but for the occasional ski mountaineering belay/rappel, that’s a small price to pay.

The glorious little Munter hitch

Continue reading ‘The Simple & Sexy Munter Hitch’

Rap Master

Published
by
Andrew
on June 16, 2008
in 06 Downhill
. 2 Comments

If you suspect that a ski descent might require a rappel, it is a good idea to bring a small assortment of gear in case you have to set an anchor.  Trees and rock outcroppings are the best anchors if you can find them, but often times it’s necessary to whack in a piton, Stopper or cam to create a secure point to rappel from.  The amount of gear you need for setting anchors varies, but 10 or so pieces ranging from knifeblade pitons to fist sized cams will get you through, over and around almost any obstacle.

The best gear to use for anchors is your oldest and least valuable, as it will become one with the mountain.  Bring along an ice ax with a hammer on it to apply a little extra lovin’ to those tight fitting pieces and remember, your life is worth far more than a few old nuts and cams.  When it doubt, back up your rap anchor with extra pieces.

Here’s a sample rap kit:

Rap gear

1.   8mm x 30m (or thicker/longer) rope
2.   Full-length runner. Good for looping over rocks
3.   25′ of 6mm accessory cord. Can be chopped up, or used to extend anchor points.
4.   22cm ice screw. A good anchor itself, or useful for making V-Threads
5.   Pitons - these go in when nothing else will and create excellent anchors
6.   Stoppers and/or nuts. The best bang for your rappelling dollar.
7.   Cams - at times, these work when nothing else will.
8.   Carabiners - used to connect anchor points, or as the main rappel point (doubled-up)
9.   Locking ‘biner - needed for a Munter Hitch rappel
10. Harness - the simpler, the better.

Keep the rock gear organized on the full-length runner and packed in a small stuff sack so that it doesn’t shred everything inside your pack and is ready to go.  If you think you are going to rap, put your harness on before dropping in so you don’t have to do it while you’re sketched out on top of a big drop.

 Packed Rap kit

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